Monthly Archives: March 2012

Hope Does Spring Eternal …

Cut to the heart after a rare snowstorm in October.  Will it survive? Thanks to an unusually mild winter…

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A resounding yes.

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Book Review & Contest: Knitting Scandinavian Slippers & Socks by Laura Farson

Knitting Scandinavian Slippers & Socks by Laura Farson, Martingale & Company, 2012, 80pp.

Looking for a collection of patterns for gifts that have a high glory to work ratio that will satisfy both process & product knitters?  Here you go!  (And I bet you keep at least one pair for yourself.)

Laura has designed a collection of 19 slipper (or what I’d call house sock) and sock patterns, done in twined &/or stranded knitting.

The slippers are all done in worsted weight yarn, and thus should work up relatively quickly.  The sock patterns are worked in fingering weight yarn, but on US4 needles.

Patterns are written for one size only, but she notes the slippers, especially, are very stretchy and can fit a wider range of sizes.

Pansy Slippers © Martingale

Laura includes short chapters on techniques required to work the patterns:  different techniques for casting on with 2 colors, knitting in the round, twined knitting, stranded knitting, add’l technique, felted insoles, etc.

The stitch patterns (colorwork) are all charted.  The charts are easy to read.

The directions are concise, referring knitters to the basic sock or slipper pattern as needed.  These patterns are suitable for confident intermediate to intermediate+ knitters;  you must be comfortable working from charts, working with multiple colors, etc.

The motifs are mostly traditional motifs (or inspired by traditional motifs) from Scandinavia (and one from Estonia).

Norwegian Star slippers © Martingale

I met Laura at the Winter TNNA.  She’s incredibly sweet and modest, and it was lovely chatting with her! I received my personal/review copy from her, and an additional copy from Unicorn to give away.

Leave a comment on this post on my blog with your favorite pattern from the book by midnight PST, April 5 2012, including a way to contact you. I’ll draw a winner via Random.org the next day.

This Weekend and Beyond…

Wow - the roller coaster that is March is clicking its way up the last hill.  We're about to throw our hands in the air and holler, "WHEEEEEEE" as we dash toward the DFW Fiber Fest this weekend in Grapevine. 

The Fest starts Friday morning at 9 AM and goes through Sunday.  Click here to get to their site for all the specifics, including maps and schedules.  We'll be there with a booth, and also as a sponsor for the big Ravelry shindig on Friday night.  Can't wait to see everybody there!



Then the next bit of fun here at the farm will be a much-in-demand Tri-Loom Weaving class on Saturday, April 14.  I have 3 spaces still available for this class -- it's a limited group mostly due to the size of the LRB.  We want everyone to have room to spread out and really enjoy the day.  The looms from Barney Terrell are $45, the optional tabletop tripods are $20 and the class itself is $20.  Yep... just $20.  Bring your lunch and we'll make a day of it - 10 AM to 1 or 2 PM, depending on how much time everybody needs.  I'll have Midge Jackson's amazing patterns available, too, so once you know how to use the loom, you can think about how to use those amazing little triangles.  (It's not too early to start your holiday gift-making!)  Drop me a line and I'll hold your spot. 

April, aside from some new knitting and spinning classes, will be all about fiber preparation.  I'll try to let you know when I have a big day scheduled here to skirt, tumble and/or wash, and if you've been interested in learning the basics, I'd love to show you the process.  A day up to your armpits in fabulous fiber is a wonderful thing.

Breakfast of Champions

I have a long, full day ahead of me, so I started it out right. Brock made me this heaping plate of peppery scrambled eggs and bacon. I couldn’t eat it all, so the leftover bacon is in a baggy for a snack later.

I am visiting a farm out in the country with some fiber friends where they sell garden supplies–hopefully I can get a good deal on some seedlings since the hail we had yesterday morning destroyed some of mine. After that I have some Farmer’s Market planning to do. Then, best of all, it’s Open Stitch Night at the PFA!

If you’re in the area, come join us from 7-9 pm at Potwin Presbyterian Church in Topeka, KS. Bring your favorite fibery project. I’ll be there with my spinning wheel and some sparklies, and hopefully will have had something to eat besides bacon.

How to Shear a Sheep in Five Steps

If you’ve ever met Emily Chamelin, our shearer, you’re probably as much in love with her as I am. Every single time I watch her shear, I’m astonished by her strength, skill, and conscientious respect of the animal she’s working with. I sort of can’t decide whether I want her to be my older sister, or whether I’d just like to be her when I grow up. Suffice it to say that, if I can ever become as much of a badass as Emily, I’ll have accomplished something to be proud of (I asked Zac if this was even possible, and he said, “Well, you’ll have to work really hard.”)

Therefore, when Emily kept asking if I was going to come to Shearing School, and Susan said she’d pay to send me, I was over the moon!

Former Farm Manager Erin was also planning on going, so we decided to go together. Erin is another woman I admire to no end, not only because she’s a good friend who also happens to be way smarter and tougher than I am, but also because ever since I started working at the farm, my job has literally been, “Try and be as good as Erin.” Let me tell you, she’s a lot to live up to!

So, back in January, we sent in our checks and, in turn, received a page of information about what we’d be learning. Our Shearing School is put on every year by the Maryland and Delaware Cooperative Extensions, and is designed both to teach the shepherd how to take the fleece off a sheep, and also to serve as a source of continuing education for shearers.

As the time wore on, though, I became more and more worried about one bullet point– under “Items to Bring,” was listed “A body with the strength and willingness to learn to shear sheep.” Willingness, I could handle, but I wasn’t so sure about strength. Our classmates, whether farmers or not, would all be bigger and stronger than me– most people are, statistically speaking. Erin had been working out with shearing specifically in mind. I’d spent the three months since January joking about needing to start, but, of course, never did.

In the morning, when Erin and I walked up to the pre-class circle of would-be-shearers, our instructor was saying something about how, used to be, they advised you take the class only if you could bench-press 120 lbs. I assuaged my horrible sense of dread by thinking of when Emily learned to shear (never mind that she was 15 then, and I’m 23), thinking of everyone’s encouraging tweets and emails, and swearing that, if I made it through without serious embarrassment (cutting off an ear, or something even worse? being unable to even control my sheep?), I’d start running every day (which, of course, has yet to happen).

After a few shearing demonstrations and a rehearsal of the 5 positions of shearing, there really was nothing left to do but try it ourselves. “It’s just like learning to swim,” they told us, “You’ve gotta jump in!”. We all split up into groups of four, grabbed a sheep and a pair of clippers, and got to work.

Would you like to see how to shear a sheep?

Erin was braver than everybody else, and so went first.

To begin with, you sit the sheep up in front of you– this is first position. Starting at the breastbone (we called it the brisket!), start shearing off the belly wool.

Since this is the wool that’s dirtiest, it helps to go ahead and get it out of the way. It’s important to shear wide enough to make sure  that you’re well-set-up for farther down the road.

After you take off the belly wool, you lean over further and take the wool off the legs and crotch, sort of scooping the clippers up the right leg, across, and down the left leg. The big danger here is accidentally shearing off a ewe’s teats, so you’re supposed to cover them up with your left hand (“you sure won’t shear ‘em off now!”).

Emily helps me navigate a tricky spot.

Once the belly, crotch, and legs are clean, you rotate about 90 degrees, change into second position, and start shearing her left hind leg (I’m using the feminine pronoun because, well, most sheep are ewes). It’s also in this second step that you clear the wool off from the tail area, and, since her head is easily accessible, shear off the topknot of fleece from the top of her head.

I love how much Erin’s smiling in this picture. Shearing is fun!

After than, you swing your legs around your sheep and into third position. You’re going to move your clippers up from the brisket along the neck, and end your stroke (or “blow,” as they’re called) under the left side of her chin. This is, in my opinion, the most thrilling– I mean that in both senses– part of shearing. You’re “unzipping” the fleece along the underside of the neck, and it definitely looks and feels the coolest, but it’s also terrifying.

Because (obviously) the sheep is covered in wool, you can’t tell where the wool ends and the sheep begins unless you have a very exact knowledge of her specific anatomy and musculature (more on this later). It’s pretty terrifying to move a pair of clippers into the unknown– rather, unknown, except for the knowledge that, if you make a mistake, you could cut your sheep’s neck pretty badly.

If one end of the error spectrum are nicks and cuts, then the other end of the spectrum is second cuts, which are short pieces of fleece that weren’t taken off with the first pass of the clippers. Second cuts cause all sorts of problems– if incorporated into yarn, they make it weaker, and cause it to pill more quickly– and so it’s important to keep them to a minimum. In fact, our instructors told us that we must not be so afraid of cutting the sheep, because, otherwise, all we’d do is make second cuts. I wasn’t so good at not being afraid (but, still, I nicked a few sheep).

After you’ve opened up the fleece along the neck, you keep making parallel passes with your shears– up from the chest, along the left side of the neck, ending right under the eye; up the chest, along the neck, end under the ear. This is the part when it’s easiest to take off an ear, so, just like with the teats, you’re supposed to find it, get hold of it, and make sure to keep it out of harm’s way.

Once the left side of the neck is clear, you start working on the left shoulder. Emily showed Erin and I a bit of weight-shifting footwork that helps get the sheep’s shoulder in a better position to shear.

The more you know about your sheep, the easier she’ll be for you to shear– and since she’s covered in wool, it can sometimes be hard to tell. If you know she’s fat, it’ll be, as Emily says, “Easy, like shearing a beach ball.” If she’s skinny, you’re going to have to work a little harder to navigate around the bony hips, shoulders, and spinal processes. Does she have two teats, or are there four (ewes sometimes have an extra vestigial set) to watch out for? If she’s a finewool sheep with Merino heritage (hello, Cormo), she’s going to be covered in the wrinkles and extra skin that those breeds were bred to have (more skin = more hair follicles = more wool per sheep), and you’re going to have to make sure not to nick those. If she’s in good health, she should shear easily. If she’s doing poorly, though, the lanolin (which usually melts a bit, and helps to lubricate the clippers) won’t flow so freely, and instead stays thick, like wax, and gums up your clippers.

I was continually amazed at the intimacy of it, and humbled by the amount of strength and knowledge required– I don’t think I’ve experienced anything like it in my past year of shepherding. It’s quite a thing to know there where, why, and how of every single inch of every single sheep, and then use that knowledge to navigate a potentially dangerous situation (those clippers are sharp), and end up with a valuable product (7 or 8 lbs of wool per sheep).

That said, it’s also hot, sweaty, greasy, difficult, dirty, exhausting, poopy, smelly, frustrating, and sometimes bloody. Dragging ourselves back to the hotel after the first day, I told Erin, “If anyone ever tells me shearing’s like a beautiful, graceful, athletic dance between the shearer and the sheep, I’m gonna punch ‘em in the face,” and there were plenty of jokes about, “Any job where your read end’s gotta be higher than your head– that’s not a good job!”

So, back to business.

Once the whole left side is clear, you slide the sheep down your shin and into fourth position. A big part of learning the positions is making sure the sheep is comfortable– the more comfortable she is, the less she’ll struggle and fight, and the easier it is for the both of you.

It’s time for what’s called the long blows, which are some of the easiest parts of shearing to learn (but hardest to master). They also look really cool. You move your clippers right across the body, tail to head. You keep making blows along the back, making sure to keep the comb of your clippers right along the curve of her back, until you’re one blow past her spine.

After that comes fifth position: swing your right leg around, pick up your sheep, and, holding her nose between your knees, start shearing down the right side– head, neck, and shoulder– rolling the sheep up towards you as you move down her body.

Once you’re past the shoulder, you start making diagonal passes down the right side– you’re almost done!

After making those diagonal passes down the sheep’s right side, all there is left to do is clear off the right leg and hindquarter.

See how Erin is using her left hand to put all her weight into the sheep’s right flank? That serves two purposes– 1) it straightens out the right leg, so that it’s easier to shear, and 2) it tightens up the skin, so that there’s less risk of it getting caught in the clippers. Honestly, there’s so much skin-tightening, head-holding, ear-grabbing, leg-straightening, and teat-saving done with the non-clipper-holding-hand, you might as well say that it did all the work! Nevertheless, both Erin and I had pretty sore right arms from holding on to those clippers! Not only are they pretty heavy, but they also 1) vibrate and 2) are dripping with motor oil and lanolin. It’s not easy.

But, once you’ve cleaned off that last leg, you’re done!

Emily actually took videos of both Erin and me finishing our sheep– they’re up on Facebook, if you’d like to see more.

And so, here I am after my first-ever sheep, grinning like a goofball.

She looks like a carpet after it’s been vacuumed!

But the job’s not over once the sheep’s shorn! In their varying levels of wholeness– ranging from the gorgeous waterfalls of wool produced by some of the experienced shearers to the utterly destroyed scraggles produced by all of us beginners– the fleeces were taken to the skirting table and sorted. As someone who erred on the side of second cuts, I felt a little guilty!

Erin and I came away from the weekend physically exhausted, but otherwise wildly enthused about shearing– not only are we planning on tagging along with Emily when she’s in Virginia next, but we’re also thinking of going up to Maryland for the wool pool (can you imagine seeing a whole state worth of wool, all in one place!?), and we definitely want to go to Maryland Sheep & Wool, too (anyone have a couch or a spare bedroom for us?).

All in all, I found that my favorite thing about shearing is the intense focus and drive that it gives you– as soon as you turn on the clippers, the world contracts to you, your sheep, and the noise of your machine (this is a bit of a lie. I had Emily coaching me– literally holding my hand in some parts– through my whole first sheep, which was the only reason my sheep looked so good.). The only important thing is getting the fleece off the sheep, and making sure they’re both in good condition by the end. No matter what happens– you cut your sheep? you feel tired? your sheep escaped from you? you seriously don’t think you can do it? It started raining and the barn roof started leaking onto your head?– you cannot and must not give up. You can do it because you must (does anyone remember the end of Bambi, where he’s been shot by a hunter, but there’s a forest fire, and the Great Prince of the Forest comes up and says, “Bambi! You must get up!”? It’s like that.), and I haven’t had that feeling since I got to help Susan pull a stuck lamb last spring.

It’s definitely a heck of a rush (although maybe that’s just from spending 30 minutes with all the blood going to my head!), and I can’t wait for the chance to do it again!

Charm pack quilt back

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Not to be outdone, Riley provided expert assistance with the pieced back for the quilt top. I’ve only done the color strips so far and will need another session to finish assembling the back.

The Camembert Show

Guess what we’ve been doing all day?

 

Book Review: 200 Fair Isle Motifs: A Knitter’s Directory by Mary Jane Mucklestone

200 Fair Isle Motifs: A Knitter’s Directory by Mary Jane Mucklestone, Interweave, 2011, 208pp.

Mary Jane Mucklestone is known for her wonderful stranded designs.

In this book, she’s swatched a plethora of motifs, charted them in various colorways, and charted many of the motifs as all over repeats.  Just the sheer amount of knitting to create all the swatches indicates this was a labor of love.

The strength of this book is not the number of motifs — you can get far more motifs in Starmore’s Charts for Color Knitting, for example.

The usefulness and value of this book is seeing the difference in color selection and how it alters the appearance of the different motifs.

It’s a fantastic take on a stitch dictionary, and incredibly inspiring.

Mary Jane sourced yarn from Jamieson’s, J&S, Elemental Affects, & Harrisville.

If you’re a stitch pattern collector, or especially if you’re designing stranded items, I recommend this book.

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I purchased my copy from the Feral Knitter.

How to Spin Thick n Thin Yarn

Lately, I have been spinning a lot of thick n thin yarn for commissions or just for fun. I thought it would be fun to share how I do it.

First, choosing a top is always rough. There are so many good colors and good dyers out there. Lucky for me, I found this little bundle of forgotten Corriedale Cross at the bottom of my spinning fiber bin.

The first thing I like to look for when spinning thick n thin is a top that’s been dyed to have short color repeats.

This isn’t exactly necessary, but I find it more aesthetically pleasing, plus it’s more fun for me to spin.

Then, like with any spinning project, I pull out a little tuft of fiber and measure the staple length.

About five inches. For this sort of project this is particularly important if you don’t want to be fighting while you draft out your thick parts.

Now, for this next step, some folks may call this cheating, but I just call it good sense. I separate the top into 1 ounce bumps and then split each bump lengthwise until I have a pile of skinny strings of roving.

Which I then roll into little nests for the sake of keeping neat and not having a pile of fiber fall into my lap every time I need to choose a new strand.

The point of doing this is to peel the fiber down to size you want the “thick” parts of your yarn to be. I find that a good rule for fitting the the orifice on my Lendrum is to keep things about as thick as a sharpie.

Another advantage to drafting this way: you get a lot of practice joining. By the time you spin 4 oz. of fiber, you’ll be a pro!

Wheel Settings: I turn my wheel to my slowest ratio and have my take up set fairly low. It’s important to get enough twist into the yarn while keeping the thick parts lofty. My best advice is to play around with your wheel to find the best settings for you.

Spinning Thin: When you start spinning, draft as you would normally, choosing a comfortable weight for your “thin” sections. (It’s important not to go too thin, otherwise it’s difficult to get enough twist into it.)

Spinning Thick: Remember your staple length? Jump your drafting hand back that many inches, leaving a thick section, and start drafting for “thin” again behind it. Then just keep going, drafting and jumping as often as you feel you need to. Don’t worry about making it even, because the whole point of this yarn is that it is uneven.

I definitely think this sort of thing works better on fibers with longer staple length, Corriedale, BFL for instance. I’m not saying it can’t be done with merino, I’m just saying you’ll have to work a little bit harder to get enough twist in so that it doesn’t fall apart when you take it off your bobbins. (Yes, this has happened to me.)

I am in love with this Corriedale Cross wool (Crossed with Lincoln I believe, which is also SO FUN to spin.)

I always let my bobbins set overnight before I skein this up. Since it’s a singles, it just makes me feel better about the strength and integrity of the yarn.

After your yarn is skeined and tied up so it won’t tangle set the yarn by soaking it in your favorite wool wash. I do agitate it just a little bit to slightly full the thick parts. Fulling lends some extra integrity to the thick parts, they are less likely to pill or break. After the yarn is done soaking, I also sometime thwack it again the (round) towel bar in my bathroom for a little bit of extra fulling. Then set out to dry and you’re done!


My favorite application for this kind of yarn is a funky cowl or beret.

Frozen Hot Chocolate …

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Serendipity ~ New York City