Monthly Archives: September 2018

As much as we didn’t want to leave Orkney, we were excited for what we’d encounter on our drive down through the Highlands to Kennacraig, where we’d camp for the night before catching the ferry to Islay.

For the first half of the day we had fairly clear weather, and took every opportunity to pull over and take pictures or explore a bit.

Check out that castle right on the cliff overlooking the sea. I’m fairly certain it is Dunrobin Castle, but we didn’t have time to stop and tour. (Next time!)

Cow! We had been expecting to see far more of these longhorn beauties all over the Highlands, but no such luck. We spotted this guy and his three buddies, and perhaps one or two others from the road, but that was it for the entire trip. I asked Andrew, the lovely gentleman from Big Tree who drove us to the train station in Perth, about the lack of them, but he had no answer. He did suggest we come back for the Highland Games because we’d see plenty then. (Next time!)

Loch Ness! We both actually squealed when it came into view. Fortunately the lay-by we pulled into had a stairway down to the rocky beach below, so we took a few moments to stand on the shoreline and take some photos (and steal a rock or two, and dip our fingers into the water).

We stopped at Drumnadrochit to see the exhibit and gift shops, expecting the cheesiest display of monster lore possible. However, we were happily surprised by a very well-done history of the Loch itself, as well as its geology and marine composition and life.  The possibility of a monster was discussed with a skeptic’s eye but open to the possibility. We were also surprised to learn that the Loch does not actually contain much in the way of fish life. It’s not as diverse an underwater community as one might imagine.

Urquhart Castle, overlooking Loch Ness. We did not pay the admission fee to tour it, as it was absolutely crawling with tour buses full of people. But we stopped for a few photos from the hill above.

Further along down the road we decided to find a good lay-by to pull over and have some sandwiches and tea. While waiting for the water to boil, we looked around and could see an old graveyard a short walk from where we were (just outside of Invermoriston). So, after eating, we ventured down and had a pleasant walk through a picturesque little graveyard full of mainly military graves.  Kim and I both very much enjoy old graveyards for not only the beautiful stonework and peace therein, but the rich history you can discover about an area.

Just beyond the graveyard we stepped in to use a public restroom and discovered a short walking rail to a waterfall. It was a complete fluke, but we took advantage of the opportunity and hiked about three minutes to the edge of a rather scary drop overlooking a raging torrent of water. Sadly my pictures do it no justice.

Continuing on, we met with rain and fog for most of the duration of our drive. We passed by Glen Coe and Ben Nevis (they would have been short diversions from the road we were on), but decided it wasn’t worth stopping as the rain was rather heavy and the fog made visibility rather low.

The upshot is that as we got closer to Kennacraig and the rain began to move out, we were rewarded with some spectacular views.

In continuing with our theme of happening “by chance” into some amazing sites, we pulled over in a large off-road parking area to double check google maps and realized we were parked next to this lovely little church. Which, oh hey check it out, is full of medieval graves. We could have spent far more time than the fifteen minutes we gave ourselves. We will definitely be back to this spot. Also, I’m beginning to think it was less us landing by luck in amazing places and more that it’s impossible to NOT land in amazing places in Scotland. This lovely spot is in Kilmartin.

We approached the ferry at Kennacraig just as the sun was starting to set and had assumed we’d find plenty around the area. However, the ferry was rather isolated, and it didn’t seem there was much closeby. We ended up taking a road leading to Skipness, and found a spot to camp for the night near the Arran ferry, right on the water. This was our first time wild camping. It felt a bit crazy, being from the US, to just pick a random spot off the road to spend the night. But, there were a few other campervans randomly dotted along the same beach area, so we picked a flat spot and parked.

As you might guess being not far from the Arran ferry, that island across the water from us is the Isle of Arran. There were lots of seagulls, storks, and pheasants about to keep us entertained as it got dark.

We had picked up some small meat pies at a Morrison’s along the way and ate those (with some good Scottish whisky to wash it down) while watching the birds and the sunset. Another magical day in the books.

After leaving reluctantly leaving Kirkwall we drove out to do some more sight-seeing on the island before hitting the Standing Stones.  Along the way we got the knack of driving down narrow, one-lane paths that allowed two-way traffic (there are lay-bys to pull off into, and everyone waves as they pass. It’s very civilized).

We found a quaint spot on the coast in Birsay overlooking a smaller island and these amazing cliffs.

Again, sheep and cows are all over the island.  You could get real sick of seeing them if you’re that kind of person (hint: we’re not).  We had our lunch (pb&j sandwiches and tea) sitting in Fergus with the door open to a field of wild hares running about.  We saw yet more sheep. Soon enough, it was time to find the stones before it got too dark.

The Ring of Brodgar,our first stop, is a circle of standing stones older than Stonehenge. As luck would have it, there were very few people around, and we had the site mostly to ourselves. Unlike Stonehenge and Skara Brae, you are permitted to walk among the stones.

It’s no surprise, of course, that there is heather everywhere. I enjoyed the variation in hues, but had a hard time capturing it just right. I cannot wait to try and create a yarn colorway based on it.

Another thing about the heather: there is now a company making jewelry from its stems. Basically, the wood is compressed under massive pressure until it become gem-like. The company is fittingly called “HeatherGems”. And yes, I bought a necklace.

Kim is sporting the cowl I made her using JMF Marlowe. I called it “Whiskey and Water”, even though that’s not what the original pattern was called. If you want that one, it’s HERE.

I’m not really sure I could have asked for better lighting.

From The Ring of Brodgar we headed out to The Stones of Stennes. There were fewer stones here, and in a smaller circle, but they were no less impressive (even more than Stonehenge, if I daresay. )

Plus, SHEEP! There were 3 rams grazing down the grass among the stones.  They weren’t interested in my attempts to befriend them, but they weren’t aggressive or unfriendly guys, either.

There were also gulls and other birds flying around and we heard some crazy sounds coming from over by the water.

Turns out we werent hearing birds. See that rock there? No you don’t!

It’s a seal! He had friends splashing around as well, but I wasn’t quick enough to catch them.  Still, talk about right pace, right time!

Just a wee bit of a seal head sticking above the surface.

This was not a day we wanted to end. There was so, so much more of Orkney to see, but we were out of time. We found a caravan park on the water next to the ferry, and took a walk along the shore as the sun set.  We agreed we’ll have to go back and spend at least a week just for Orkney and its surrounding isles.  We also happened upon a pasture full of cows that I may or may not have spent a good while petting (if you’re US Customs, I most certainly did NOT touch them).

Watching the Hamnavoe return to port.

We waited up to see what the sky situation would look like for viewing aurora activity, but sadly there was quite a bit of cloud cover.

I will say right here that Orkney was my best day ever. Truly. I would move there in a heartbeat, snow or not. I absolutely plan to return (I mean, I still need to see the Northern Lights, or “Dancing Mirries”, and of course, puffins!) and hopefully before too long. Orkney is magic, and I sincerely hope not too many people discover it!

Okay, you all know how insufferable I am about travel. Especially overseas travel. Now, having returned from a week in Scotland, you’re going to have to indulge me for awhile as I inevitably cannot talk about anything else. All the lovely people we met and chatted with.  The staggering beauty everywhere you look. The history. The sheep!

For those of you who don’t follow me on FB (you’re always welcome to, but beware I’m a wee bit more political there), you’ll need some background. (There’s also more pictures there from my phone that aren’t here)

My friend Kim and I rented a campervan from Big Tree Campervans out of Bankfoot in Perth and drove it through the Cairngorms to Thurso, on the northern coast, where we caught the ferry to Orkney. After Orkney, we drive down through the Highlands, past Loch Ness and down to Kennacraig where we caught yet another ferry to the island of Islay. Uopn leaving Islay, we drove back across the mainland to Bankfoot where we caught a train to Edinburgh for our last few days. It was magical. The van was absolutely perfect, and I cannot speak highly enough of the folks who run the business. Simon, Hazel, and Andrew were some of the loveliest people we’ve ever met, and I want to be their friend forever! (Plus there was a cat named Crunchy and a dog named Bob. I mean….what more could you ask for?)

We named the van Fergus. It was just what we needed for two of us: a bed, heat, a sink, and a stovetop, with plenty of storage space. And though driving on the left (correct ;-p) side of the road was weird at first, it quickly became easy.

When we reached Thurso the first night we quickly found the ferry so we’d know where to go first thing in the morning. After that we headed out to find a spot to park for the night and came across Murkle Caravan Park  overlooking a field full of sheep (they really are everywhere. You cannot throw a stone in Scotland without hitting one).

We ate our dinner overlooking the field of sheep, which in turn overlooked the sea. (Yes, I asked. They were Texcel sheep, and I made friends with one by giving it a few salty crisps). Although we were hoping to see the northern lights, we sadly missed out. We did, however, see the Milky Way more clearly and densely than either of us ever had before.

The ferry to Orkney, the MV Hamnavoe, was gorgeous, and absolute luxury compared to the plane we had so recently taken.  We both tried to stay awake for the scenery, but the gentle rocking put us both to sleep for most of the trip. Since they were not allowing anyone on the outside decks, I couldn’t have taken pictures anyway.

As for Orkney itself…..I’m not sure I’ve ever been this deeply in love with a place before.  I’ll only get through part of it in this post, because I have far too many pictures.

Again, sheep and cows everywhere (actually we were so disappointed to see so very few Highland Longhorns that we took to calling the rest of them “Basic” cows.)

Our first destination on-island was Skara Brae, the 5,000 year old neolithic settlement on the coast.

Along the way we stopped for pictures (and hoped to find the small village of Twatt. We ended up driving through it a bunch of times but never found the sign. Oh well. Opportunity for shenanigans missed).

We did see quite a lot of Shetland ponies (and were offered one. If only he’d have fit in my carry on!)

The path leading out to the village site is like my dream of where I’ll take my daily walks with my dogs one day, walking stick (or crook) in hand, wrapped in a hand-knitted shawl of wool from my flock.

The unearthed settlement is incredible. It was found by the property owner after a particularly nasty storm had exposed some of the top layers, and was subsequently excavated over many years. The dwelling were dug out and supported by stone, with earthen roofs. They very much reminded us of hobbit homes, and were very intelligently laid out. It’s remarkable, given that this site is older than Stonehenge.

Believe it or not, the climate is actually quite mild here (thanks to the Gulf Stream). There are even palm trees! If I had to pick a prehistoric site to live, this would be it. Abundant sea life, wild hares all over, pheasants and water fowl, plenty of land for grazing livestock, a climate that’s neither tool cold nor too hot (they don’t generally get snow in Orkney).

As an aside, this roof. I love it! We did see one while we were there that was completely sod covered. Talk about fantastic insulation!

Along the beach just below the village are so many rocks that people have taken to stacking them in various configurations.  When Kim and I saw we could access the beach, there was no way we weren’t going down there!

We spent some time collecting little shells and rocks to bring home.

And found crab parts everywhere. I’m guessing the seagulls feast on them and drop bits back onto the beach, because when I say everywhere, I mean everywhere.  Legs, claws, bodies. I stopped counting how many we found. Giant blobs that I think were jellyfish were caught up in the sea detritus as well.

The colors! I am so inspired to start dyeing wool again.

From Skara Brae we drove to Kirkwall, Orkney’s  main town. While strolling with no real direction in mind, we came across St. Magnus Cathedral, founded in 1137 by a Viking called Eric Rognvald. The entire island, in fact, has quite a lot of Viking influence.

We could have wandered around Kirkwall for hours, but we had already overstayed our parking, so we headed over to the pier for a final look at the town before heading out to find the standing stones.

Stay tuned!